Freeola Internet Get Dotted Domains Blog Guides Chat
All .uk domains 99p
Register any UK domain (.uk, .co.uk, .org.uk or .me.uk) for just 99p for 1 year! Offer ends 30th June 2017

Age of Empires 2: The Conquerors Walkthroughs
(PC Games)

Submit your own walkthrough and you could win a free computer game!
Submitted By: Daleo
AGE OF EMPIRES: THE CONQUERORS – COMPLETE GUIDE TO MINI CASTLE BLOOD STORE

INTRODUCTION

Welcome to my guide of the highly popular Age of Empires Conquerors game Mini CB Store. Mini CB Store was a popular and enjoyable game in the scenario rooms of the Zone rooms. Sadly, due to the Zone closing down, a good game of Mini CB Store is now very hard to find, but it’s still played often at the new zone at Gamespy. Mini CB Store when first played can be a very confusing and complex game, so this guide aims to throw open all the rules and aspects of MCBS, and show you the best way to employ your civ and kill your way to victory.

OVERVIEW

Okay, well let’s start with some history. MCBS is basically one version of the most played scenario game on AOE: Castle Blood. There are 3 main versions of Castle Blood: The Mini CB games, the CBF (Castle Blood Fair) games and the Rambit CB games. This guide will concentrate on the MCBS game.

Basically, the idea of MCBS is to get kills. The more kills you get, the more upgrades you obtain, and the easier it is for you then to invade and destroy your enemies’ bases. It’s a really simple idea cleverly captured in an enjoyable game.

MAP LAYOUT

NOTE: I will explain the layout of the version MCBS 1-2, as this is by far the most popular version. There are other versions with slight differences, but they all pretty much follow this format:

Right, let’s start with your base. Your starting base in the game is basically a pretty small square area of grassy land. In the top left and right of your small base, you have 2 castles, and this is where you can generate your units depending on what civ you are. Your castles are normal castles and can be destroyed. Around your base and around the map is just ocean, it being an inaccessible area. In the bottom right of your small square, you have a house with 900HP, and next to your castle a guard tower. You start off with 2 paladins, whom with automatically re-spawn if killed, and you also get a hero.

Your hero is a vital part of your success in the game. It’s basically a cavalry archer, which starts with 275HP and 13 attack, but every 10 or so seconds will increase HP and attack. It doesn’t take long before your hero becomes a one hit killer. Your hero’s HP will also slowly re-generate when not being attacked. The longer you keep your hero, the more powerful it will become. Your hero will have some name like ‘TW_Chewys’ – these are the people who designed MCBS. Being a one hit killer, your hero can pretty much take down small armies with ease and large armies if it keeps retreating, as it can move very fast. Your hero is vital, and you should try not to lose it.

Also in your base, you get a monk at the back on a separate strip of land. This monk can’t come onto your base, but can heal your army if within reach. Use the monk to heal your army after doing battle and returning to base.

Behind your base, you’ll see various patches of land. You’ll have a patch of houses, which determines how many units you can make, and a tower with a king underneath. The king tells you how many kills you’re currently at. The extra spaces are for blacksmith, monastery and university that you can obtain later on.

Right, from your small square base, a narrow strip of land leads from the centre to a main rectangle piece of land. There are 8 bases in all: 4 to the north, and 4 to the south. All these lead to the centre of a fairly large rectangle of bare grass land. In the centre however, every player playing gets one house, and this house lies in the centre. Then, to the right of the map, you have the ‘store’, where your kings spawn and where you can purchase helpful ‘upgrades’. I will explain the kings and store later on.

And that’s basically the layout of MCBS. A very simple layout, and it is basically how you deploy your units and how effectively you use them that will determine how well you do within the game.

As you have obviously worked out, whatever civ you are determines what unit you will be able to create from your 2 castles. I will talk about the various civs and how to use them later.

So that basically is the general layout of MCBS – Every person has their own base with 2 castles, a house, a hero, 2 re-spawning paladins, a monk, a tower, and a house in the middle. 4 bases to the north, 4 to the south, and a narrow strip of land leads each base to the main rectangle piece of land where most battles take place.

VARIOUS VERSIONS

Okay, above is the MCBS 2-1, the most common version. Listed below are all the other versions I have come across and their differences.

MCBS 1-8, 2-1 – Exactly the same as 1-2

MCBS 1-6 – Exactly the same as 1-2, except you don’t start off with a king at the store.

MCBS 17-2, 17-3 – The 17 versions are new versions of MCBS, and are actually getting more popular and are just as enjoyable. Basically the changes are that you now get 2 monks instead of 1. On site, you get Chantillion, which is basically a paladin with a pike with 270HP, and Jesuit, which is a monk on horseback that can convert units but not heal. You also get 2 more towers, one either side of your strip of land, and your strip entrance is guarded by a gate. In the centre, every one now has a house and a tower. Finally, at the store, you can now buy Robin Hood and a Ram (will explain store later). Basically the 17 versions allow people to get more razzings, and the major difference is that you now get a king for every 50 kills, instead of a 100, so there is more emphasis on the store than the previous versions.

MCBS 2-3, 2-8 – The 2 versions are very poor versions of the game. 2-3 gives you additions such as another monk, a ram with 5 cannoneers inside, a genitour guarding your strip, the ability to purchase a galleon and your hero is instead Harold, who is basically a beserk not a cavalry archer. This version basically adds pretty pointless additions to the mix, and should be avoided. 2-8 however is even worse. You start with 3 castles, a barracks and an archery range, a sheep that can give you another barracks, another range or a stable depending on what flag you put it to, re-inforced gates and a whole new store system, where you need to send kings to another store to get heroes, or keep in the normal store to get upgrades. It basically eliminates the point of MCBS. In the normal versions, you need to get 600 kills to get an extra castle, and 500 kills to get a villager to make stables etc. In this version, there is very little skill, as with a barracks, range and the choice of the 3 you end up with paladin wars. Avoid this version at all costs.

GAME LAYOUT

Right, this is basically how the game runs. Use your 2 castles to create an army of unique units depending on the civ you are, and try to get as many kills as possible before your opponents:

NOTE: In CB there is no such thing as collecting resources. You start off with 99,999 of everything, and every 5-10 mins or so Gaia pays you 3000 of each, so it is impossible to run out of anything (Stone, Wood, Gold or Food)

25 Kills – Blacksmith: As you start in castle age, you get the 5 blacksmith upgrades, that will improve your army in terms of adding attack and improving defence.

50 Kills – Monastery: The monastery will allow you to improve your monks, by improving healing power and quickness.

75 Kills – Regular Saboteur: Right, at 75 kills, in the small patch of land next to your base, a saboteur will appear and walk into your base. Your sab is the perfect defence against an large army entering your base if your defences are weak or your army is fighting elsewhere. A sab can basically wipe-out an army of around 15-20 units, and on top of arrows, should see off an army of 30-40 units.

100 Kills – William Wallace: Right, now the game is heating up. At 100 kills you obtain Wallace. Wallace is basically a champion with 800HP and high attack. It can basically take out any normal unit with one swipe, and is a perfect unit to take with your army to attack enemies, or leave in your base to stop oncoming armies. Wallace alone can easily take down small armies of around 15-20 units, and also slowly re-spawns health.

125 Kills – Super Saboteur: Another excellent addition to your base defence. A super sab basically is like a normal sab, but much more powerful. A super sab has 250HP, so can take more attack, and can easily take down an army of around 25-35 units alone. Again, should be used defensively, although some players if falling behind like to send it toward armies if they don’t get attacked often to boost their kill count.

175 Kills – University and Monk on Base: The University will appear within your houses, and gives you all sorts of upgrades, such as upgrading your towers and walls. The Monk on the base is also useful, for quick healing, and also for obtaining a Barracks, which is explained further down.

200 Kills – Ornlu the Wolf: Now you’re in business. Reaching 200 kills is now where the line between players gaining a true foothold in the game or falling behind occurs. Ornlu the Wolf is a wolf with 2000HP and a huge attack score. It can take down ordinary enemies with one hit, and regenerates health. Also, the brilliant thing about Ornlu is that unless you order your units to attack him, if he starts attacking your units they won’t attack back. Obviously this isn’t good if it happens to you, but you can literally take out a whole army without an opponent noticing. Should be used in an attacking manor, and I will explain why later.

250 Kills – Two More Houses: Will allow you to create 10 more units, which is a nice advantage to gain over your opponents.

300 Kills – Drunken Monkey: Another useful addition to your attack. It only has 9HP, but has incredible attack, and can take out units with one swipe and can get razings easily. And also, like the wolf, it will attack units and they won’t attack back unless told to, so armies can be taken out easily. Again, I will explain the perfect way to employ the money later on.

350 Kills - Two More Houses: Again, will allow you to create 10 more units. Not such a good upgrade now, seeing as the main contenders for the game should have the wolf, the monkey etc, and 10 more units won’t do much more help.

500 Kills – Villager: Right, now you’re in business. The first person to get to the villager usually goes on to win. The villager has 1500HP, which in most games glitches to become almost 100,000/40HP, with a yellow line through the HP. So basically, the villager is almost undefeatable. Now, with a villager, although you can’t make more castles, town centres to make more villagers or towers, you can build barracks, stables and archery ranges which now gives you the opportunity to basically counter any of your opponents’ units.

600 Kills – Second Villager and Extra Castle: Get to this stage, and basically you’re very difficult to defeat. Now with an extra castle, your base is very difficult to invade with less room and more arrows, and a second power villager means you can make things twice as fast. Usually by this time you’re wrecking havoc through bases, but this upgrade pretty much secures your victory.

700 Kills – Striker: Now you’re laughing. A striker is basically a heavy scorpion with 1050HP, and fires a scorpion arrow that passes through units and causes an instant kill. You can literally take out an army of 30 with 2-3 strikes. Plus, a striker can take down a castle with 3 hits. Once a player has a striker, unless you’re keeping up with them, you’ve basically lost.

800 Kills – Accused Tower and Bombard Tower: This upgrade gives you a tower and bombard tower at the front of the strip leading to your base. Again, by now you should have the game wrapped up, but it gives very efficient defence at the foot of your base.

900 Kills – Jean de Lorrain: A bit rubbish really for a final upgrade. Jean is simply a normal bombard cannon. Considering the striker is an all-powerful unit, Jean is feeble compared to it, and takes more kills to get. It’s useful to have behind your units to take out castles, but by 900 kills the game should be over.

There are also bonus upgrades you can get:

10 Razings – Castle outside base: A very handy upgrade, as although destroying 10 buildings basically doesn’t occur until later in the game, it gives your base very good protection and units can be spawned faster.

5 Converts – Barracks: Now this is a very difficult upgrade to get, as you need 175 kills to get a moveable monk on your base, and before your monk has time to convert usually the enemy unit has been killed. However, if you can get a barracks, it can be helpful if an opponent has elephants, or if you have lost one or both of your castles. Rare and difficult to get, but can be useful.

IMPERIAL AGE

Aswell as getting kills for upgrades, each civ at a certain number of kills will advance from the Castle to the Imperial age, giving them the following:

Chance to upgrade unit to an ‘elite’ unit, making it more powerful than average units.

More upgrades at the Monastery, Blacksmith and University, improving your units, castles and defence.

All-visible map, so you can your opponents bases and warn allies of attacks.

Each civ reaches the Imperial Age at the following amount of kills:

Aztecs – 150
Celts – 200
Goths – 200
Huns – 200
Japanese – 300
Teutons – 150
Vikings – 100
Franks – 250
Chinese – 250
All other Civs – 400

THE KINGS AND THE STORE

Right, if you look to the right of the map, you’ll see a rectangle piece of land, with different coloured flags, a path leading from each one, and the choice of 7-9 (depending on version) upgrades to choose from.
A king is basically a token that can be used to buy an upgrade. You get a king for every 100 kills you reach, or for every 50 kills in the 17 version maps. You then simply click your king(s) and right click to the carpet in front of the upgrade you want. Your king will walk there, disappear, and the upgrade will activate. Here are the upgrades available:

+10 Attack to All Units – Right, this is a brilliant upgrade for the later stages of the game. It only occurs on units that have already been made, so don’t use it if you’ve only spawned say 10 units. The beauty of this lies in how you use it. A classic tactic is to get to say 400-500 kills, which will give you 4-5 kills. Then, use all those kills to the +10 attack. This now means that all your units made will now have +10 attack x5, meaning they have +50 attack, making them so-called ‘super’ units, and basically impossible to defeat.

+100HP – Again, only occurs to units already made, and can be used in exactly the same way as above. Say you use 5 kings, you’ll add 500HP to all units, making them almost unstoppable. Plus, with a super monk with your units, you can heal them and move on to get more kills. Another clever tactic if you can get to 400-500 kills or more.

+1000HP – Never buy this. There is no point adding 1000HP to castles. Your castles are good enough as they are, normal units rarely can take them down without feeding you with a lot of kills. If your castles are getting attacked by super units, 1000HP won’t do much help.

Charles Martel – Right, ALWAYS buy Charles with your starting king. 95% of MCBS players buy a Martel. Reason: 680HP and one hit kill on normal units, with re-charging HP. The best way to use Martel is to move it behind your main army, and whilst they do battle, your Martel, as it’s a throwing axeman, can still behind the main army and one hit kill any units that come near. Beware however, because nearly everyone will buy a martel, so the same tactic will be used on your units.

Super Monk – Never buy this, as although it has 560HP, you get a monk in your base anyway, and a moveable one at 175 kills.

Ornlu the Wolf – Again never buy this 400HP Wolf, as it isn’t a one hit kill and has to get into the battle to kill, so can be killed easily. Plus, you get a 2000HP super Ornlu at 200 kills.

Saboteur – Never buy this again, as although it has 295HP and 200 Attack, you get sabs at 75 kills and 125 kills.

In other versions, you can also get these:

In 17-2 you can buy firstly a ram, which you should never buy as it will be killed easily by any units as it moves so slow before you even reach the castles.

However, you can also buy Robin Hood, which is a longbow man, and although has less HP than Martel at 400HP, it does re-generate HP, and is a one-hit kill against normal units from a much longer distance. A safer bet than a martel, but easier to kill.

In 2-3, you can buy a Galleon. Again, pointless, as your hero can take it out if it comes near your base, and cant get in the action as all fighting occurs on land.

THE CIVILIZATIONS

Right, here is a list of each civ you can play as, their strengths and weaknesses and how you can effectively deploy them.

AZTECS

Unique unit: Jaguar Warrior – Okay, Aztecs aren’t a very nice to play as, as the Jaguar Warrior is a very weak infantry civ, so is easily beaten by long range civs and melee units like the elephant. However, Aztec castles do spawn Jag Warriors very quickly, so a large army can be assembled quickly, and also Jag Warriors are very good at getting razings as they take down buildings quickly.

The best way to use Aztecs is to not get involved with the fighting, instead opt to go for the houses in the centre as you can spawn units quickly. Bring your hero/martel with you for protection, and then act as a back-up for stronger unit players. Never go around alone, always be accompanied with another allies army, and then when they move into a player’s base, you can move in behind and take out the house and towers. Then, with kings from razings, you can create super warriors which are harder to defeat. The only units I would recommend you attack are Beserks and strangely Longbowmen, as although they are a long range unit, they take ages to fire and because Jags are so quick, they can quickly get face to face with the longbowmen and dispatch of them easily.

BRITONS

Unique unit: Longbowmen – Probably the worst civ you can be in MCBS sadly. Longbowmen spawn slowly out of castles, have low HP, and struggle to get razings. They also struggle against strong units like the War Wagon and despite having a better range, are beaten steadily by Chu Ko Nus and Mangundai.

If you are Britons, you must follow your allies. Never go out alone, as most units can see you off easily. Be the so-called ‘back-up’ unit and sit behind the main battle, taking out units at will. Never send them into bases for razings, as they will be eaten alive.

BYZANTINES

Unique unit: Catraphact – Byzantines aren’t a bad civ to play as, as their cavalry-based catraphact is a pretty strong unit, and are good against infantry civs. However, the main problem about Byzantines are that they don’t really excel in anything, and don’t really have a major advantage. Therefore, it is difficult to know what to do as they’re generally an all-round civ.

If you are Byzantines, basically go for infantry civs like Woads or Aztecs as they have an attack bonus against infantry civs, and generally be the ‘patrol’ civ who helps out other people in trouble and looks for impending danger, as Cats travel quickly.

CELTS

Unique unit: Woad Raider – Celts are a lovely civ to go as Woads shoot out of the castles like lightening and they are superb at getting razings. Although subject to bad loss against long range civs, they do well against infantry civs such as Jags and Beserks.

If you do go Celts, you have to go for razings. Aim for all houses, in the centre and in the bases, but don’t go for castles, as being an infantry civ they get killed easily, unless of course you know you can take them down. Being very quick, they can also run past armies easily into unguarded bases.

CHINESE

Unique unit: Chu Ko Nu – The Chinese have a very useful civ in the form of the Chu Ko Nu, as it is a archery unit and one unit fires 3 arrows at once, making it excellent against infantry civs and other arrow civs.

If you are Chu Ko Nus, you need to go for infantry civs and other arrow civs, in which there are plenty. Do not go for razings, as arrow civs take ages to take down simple buildings, and do not go for gunpowder units such as Jassonry. Chinese are also a good civ to sit behind the main battles and pick off other enemy units in the battle.

FRANKS

Unique unit: Throwing Axeman – Franks can be difficult to play as, as they have the weakest of the long range units and they come slow out of the castles. However, they are excellent against infantry civs.

If you are Axemen, never travel out alone, as most other civs can see them off easily. Go for infantry units, and make sure you are protected by a martel, who can cleverly be disguised as it itself is an axemen, and pick off from the back of the battle field.

GOTHS

Unique unit: Huskarl – Goths are a brilliant civ to use, as their unit Huskarl has brilliant defence against arrows, therefore it is excellent for diposing of civs such as Mayan’s Plumbed Archers and Briton’s Longbowmen, and is also excellent for get razings against towers and castles, as the arrows they fire have little effect on them. Also, Huskarls are created very quickly out of the castles.

If you are Goths, you must play offensively. Many of the civs have an arrow unit as their unique unit, and will fear your Huskarl. You can also get much closer to an opponent’s base, as although castle fire will still take you down, it will take a lot longer. A good tactic is to draw a player’s army out of their base, and use an ally to dipose of them, and then quickly run into the base and hack away at the castles, whilst your ally moves in and takes out remaining units, as the castle fire will be on your Huskarls.

HUNS

Unique unit: Tarkan – Now Huns are a mixed civ, but if used correctly they can be truly devastating. The Tarkan, being a cavalry unit, comes out of the castles like lightening, and although is very weak against most other unique units, it is superb at get razings quickly.

If Huns, you have to be quick. As soon as your Tarkans start coming out, go for the middle houses, and their larger amounts of HP compared to infantry civs will give you a better chance against any towers. From there on in, you have to play the sneaky guy. Do not get involved in close combat, especially against Conquistors, as your Tarkans will be easily wiped out. Due to their quick speed, a brilliant tactic is to sneak into an opponents base whilst they’re out fighting, giving them little chance to withdraw units, and allowing you to attack their castles. Also, due to their quick pace leaving the castles, Huns are very difficult to break down in their own base, so defensively you have the edge.

JAPANESE

Unique unit: Samurai – Japanese are an excellent civ to go, simply because the Samurai have an attack bonus against unique civs, which is basically all you will fight up to 500 kills. Samurai, apart from Teutonic Knights, can easily wipe out all infantry civs, and seem to do well against arrow civs too despite being an infantry civ. Japanese also leave the castles very quickly.

If you do go Japanese, you should be leading the front line. Go for as many razings at the start as you can, then lead your allies around the map, picking off lone armies. Samurai aren’t too bad at getting razings either, so going for the castles in the later stages of the game wouldn’t be a bad decision.

KOREANS

Unique unit: War Wagon – Koreans are a useful civ to go, as their War Wagon has 150HP, so is difficult to take down. It can also fire from range, and is such a large unit you can block easily.

If you are Koreans, unless you come up against Elephants or Marmalukes, you can pretty much run the show. War Wagons do come out slowly of the castles, but can get razings easily, and can take down infantry civs with ease. Plus, arrow civs struggle to cause major damage, and with 150HP, you can go for towers and castles without worrying about major loss to your units. Blocking, as I mentioned earlier, is also a good thing to do in your base. Because the Wagon is so big, it fills up space easily, so you can block off your whole strip, which will stop wolves and monkeys going for your castles, and the blocking technique can wipe out armies with ease.

MAYANS

Unique unit: Plumbed Archer – Not a bad civ to go, but Mayans are limited to what they can do. Plumed Archer are an arrow unit, therefore getting razings is very difficult, and other arrow civs such as Chu Ko Nus are much stronger. They also spawn from the castles at a fairly slow rate.

If you are Mayans, you must take your army around with allies. Apart from minor infantry civs, all other units can do well against Plumbe Archers, so you should aim to be the back-up civ, sitting behind the main battle and taking out enemies within the battle. Only go for razings accompanied with super units such as Martel, as on their own Archers take ages just to take down the houses.

MONGOLS

Unique unit: Mangundai – Not a very nice civ to come as, as being another arrow civ, Mangundai struggle to get razings, and struggle against powerful opponents like the War Wagon. However, being a cavalry unit, they have more HP than infantry units, therefore can take out units such as Plumbed Archers slowly but steadily. They also spawn very slowly.

If you are Mongols, again play the back-up role. What Mongol players do like to do is bring 2 armies of 30 with them, and use the sheer amount of them to take out enemies. Again, do not go for razings, as Mangundai struggle being an arrow unit, go for easy kills from infantry units.

PERSIANS

Unique unit: War Elephant – Persians are another mixed civ, that if used correctly can devastate. War Elephants have 420HP, and destroy infantry units and arrow units with ease. However, they spawn painfully slowly from the castles, and are subject to hit and run because they move so slow, which I will explain later.

If you are Elephants, you should aim to fight alone. Do not get involved with open battles, as people can hit and run you and kill off large numbers of Elephants with ease. Instead, you should aim to fight in your opponents base, as at 420HP they can withstand castle fire. Take a Martel with you to take out extra units, and go for the castles. Elephants are also brilliant defensively as they have so much HP and are so big, you can block easily.

SARACENS

Unique unit: Marmaluke – Argueably the best civ to be in MCBS, due to the fact Marmalukes pretty much can take out any of the other units, and are brilliant against the power units of the War Wagon and the Elephant. Plus, being a range unit, can destroy infantry civs with ease.

If you are Saracens, you’ve just got to go for as many kills as possible. Forget razings, Marmalukes aren’t that good. Target infantry civs and the power units to score high amounts of kills, allowing you to get to the villager and beyond first. A very easy unit to play with.

SPANISH

Unique unit: Conquistor – Another very easy civ to play as. Conquistors, despite spawning slowly, are a gunpowder unit, so can take out arrow and infantry units with ease, and are also good at getting razings.

Again, if Spanish, you need to run the line. Go for easy razings such as houses, and get involved in the main battles, as most of the time you’ll come out on top. Plus, being a cavalry unit, you have more HP than an infantry unit.

TEUTONS

Unique unit: Teutonic Knight – Not a very nice civ to go. Teutonic Knights will destroy any of the infantry civs, but walk very slow, making them subject to hit and run, and spawn slowly from the castles.

If you are Teutons, there isn’t much point going to the enemy, as you walk so slow and will probably get a hit and run tactic deployed on you. A good tactic is to use you hero to lure armies to the foot of your base, and then use your knights to take them out. Never go out on your own looking for fights, as weaker civs will just run away from you and long range civs hit and run you.

TURKS

Unique unit: Janissary – Janissary are gunpowder infantry units, and spawn out of the castles at a faster rate than the Conquistors.

You should pretty much follow the Spanish tactics. Go for razings, and infantry/arrow units, and you should reach a nice number of kills before everyone else.

VIKINGS

Unique unit: Beserk – The worst civ to play as after Britons. Vikings are a very difficult to play as due to their very weak unit of the Beserk. Basically all other units can defeat this unit easily, making getting kills as a player an almost impossible task.

If you are Vikings, go for easy razings, and ignore the tactic of taking out an army, letting the Beserks heal themselves and moving on, because it does not work that way. Never go out alone, always move around with at least 2 other allies, and use your heroes to get kills rather than your units.

HINTS AND PLAYSTYLES

Here are a number of different tactics you can use to dispose of your opponents in MCBS

Creating ‘Super’ Units – As I have already explained, many players love to leave their kings until they have 4-5 or more, and then use them to boost up HP and attack to create almost undefeatable units.

Hero Army – Another tactic is to use your kings to buy Martels and take them with your hero, and other heroes you have into the battlefield. You should use this to take out single armies in a hit-and-run method, as I have seen people using their heroes to take out whole 30+ armies just by one-hit killing, and then running away and repeating. If you can get 3-4 kings and create 3-4 martels, you’ll have a very difficult army to break down.

Ornlu the Wolf/Monkey on Castles – A classic tactic is to wait until an opponent is engaged in battle, and whilst he’s concentrating on the battle, you can send in your wolf at 200 kills or monkey at 300 kills and tell them to attack their castles. Concentrating on the main battle, your opponent hopefully will not realise, and remember he needs to tell his units to attack the wolf/monkey, and if he doesn’t they will happily hack away with great attack power at castles without anything firing at them. I’ve seen it countless numbers of times where a player after a large fight looks back to his base and sees one castle gone and the other up in flames.

Hit and Run – A very dirty tactic, which some hosts ban. Basically hit and run is where on slow units (especially Teutonic Knights or Elephants) with long range units, you kill as many as you can just before they reach you, then you retreat your army a few paces and keep attacking. You can take out countless numbers of units this way without them actually touching you. However, some hosts do boot players for using it.

Feeding – Now this is something which you shouldn’t do. Feeding is where you basically send armies of units at enemy bases, and basically they don’t stand a chance due to castle fire etc. Then, you keep repeating this process. You can send 2 armies of 30 into an opponents base, and guarded with a hero, units and castle fire they can take you out with ease. With 60 kills, you’ve basically handed them for free a blacksmith and monastery, and they haven’t done a thing. Do not attack bases alone, as you simply won’t succeed.

Luring – Another classic tactic. Luring is where you use one unit/army of units to attack an enemy group once, and then quickly retreat them to your base. 99% of the time units are set to ‘offensive’ and therefore will follow, and you can pick them off easily under the cover of castle fire at your base. With his units following and scattered everywhere, the opponent will find it difficult to retreat them, and may not even retreat them, handing you simple kills. You can also lure to your allies army which may be good against that enemy.

Deleting – Another dirty but classic tactic, where you simply delete the unit/building under attack if you know it will be killed. A very useful tactic if you get 2 on 1 situations where you are backed into a corner, you can simply delete your army, decreasing the kills they get. It’s even more sly on buildings, as the opponent may be a few swipes away from a razing, and you just delete the building and undoing all their hard work.

PLAYER 1 BOOTER

If you are the host, you are the one that can boot players if they are cheating etc

If you look to the left of the map, you’ll see a rectangle piece of land, with 8 walls and a horse. To warn a player, simply delete their wall, and a warning message will come up telling that player to stop what they are doing. To boot a player, after the wall has been deleted, select the horse, and right click to the flags behind the deleted wall. The horse will move to the flags and boot the player.

Thankyou for reading. I hope my guide was helpful.

Crumble
Submitted By: mikelar
Here, developed alone by me and proven to work in online game
after online game is a guide to getting a fast Dark to
Feudal/Castle Time - This method can be used offline or online
but proves more effective for the latter. Anyway, what to
do....

Before the game starts, select the Aztecs as your - they start
with an eagle warrior who has a brilliant line of sight making it
easier to explore. First, create 4 villigers with the 200
starting food. You should also use the patrol function to send
the eagle warrior on a parimeter around your town centre, this
means you don't have to control him as he explores. Whilst he
does this, get one villiger to build 3 houses, close to each
other, which will accomidate for the new villigers -it will bring
the population counter to read 4/20.

The eagle warrior should find 8 sheep, which you should move to
your Town Centre as soon as they are found, the Berry Bushes, 2
boar and 4/5 deer. You must understand that the map in each
game, unless it is a custom map, is newly generated each time so
that the resources are never in the same place, finding the
resources fast is often down to luck but it is possible.

Anyway, the eagle warrior should have at least found some sheep
and the bushes by the time the villiger builds the first house.
You should now send two villigers to build a mill next to the
bushes where they will harvest food from them. The first
villiger will now be created, send him/her to get food from the
sheep, if you havn't found the sheep, send him to help with the
bushes - keep looking for your sheep if you havn't found them,
its important that you have 8. The next three villigers should
then proceed, again, although it is unlikely by now, you not have
found sheep so send them to the bushes, if not send them to get
food from the sheep.

Either way, by now you should have 2 or more people harvesting
the bushes, the villiger finishing the last house and some
getting food from the sheep, once the building villiger finishes,
send him to help with the sheep/bushes. Ok, now keep creating
villigers with the food the harvesters and sheep killers bring
in. Send them to either the bushes or sheep, not anytinng else
yet.

Now, when all the sheep of gone you get hunt the boar, to do this
succesfully, send one villiger to attack the boar, the boar wil
chase the villiger so move him near the town centre were the
villigers who were/are killing sheep can help attack the boar.
Repeat for the second boar. Once the sheep and boar are killed
send your villigers to kill the deer.

Only when there are 6 people harvesting the bushes and 6 people
killing sheep/boar/deer (totaling 13/20 on the population
counter) should you change and create villigers to chop wood. As
these are created, send them to the trees near your town centres,
not near any forests as it speeds up time spent moving wood.
Reapeat this until you have 18 or 19/20 on the population
counter. Then, with the wood harvested, create one more house.
Keep choping until you get to 100 wood where you can send all the
choppers to build a lumber camp next to a lot of trees.

Keep creating villigers to chop wood until the population reaches
23/25 were you can create 2 villigers which you can send to make
farms which will help with food gathering. Then you should have
enough food to advance to the Feudal age (requires 500 food).
During this time, the villigers harvesting the bushes will have
exhaugsted the food so send them to build a mining camp near a
supply of gold (found by the scouting eagle warrior).

Now all the villigers should be hard at work either gathering
food, mining or chopping. During this time, build 2 more houses
to bring the counter up to 25/35.

Now if you wanted to get a fast Feudal then this would work, but
I've advanced the scheme to speed up getting a castle age as
well. Here's the rest...

Once you reach feudal the villigers who were hunting the deer
will have finished, send them to create farms (research horse
collar in the mill if you can). Wait until your wood supply is
back up and build a market and blacksmith, whilst waiting you can
create more villigers to chop wood or, if you have the wood,
build farms. By now you should have around 8-10 farms with
enough people chopping to replensih the farms when they run out.
In a matter of minutes your food will reach 600-700, keep
creating villigers and farms if you can. You;'ll also notice you
have more then the required 200 gold to advance to castle age,
spend the excess gold on buying food and voila, 800 food and 200
gold read to advance to castle age in 20-23 minutes. The best
step from here is to then build a barracks and create eagle
warriors (20 food, 50 gold) to rush the enemy, they are effective
against most things and are fast with a long range of sight.

There, all done, now just practice the technique if it dosn't
quite work how this is written, remember - the map always changes
so each game is different and finding food can be difficult, with
practice and experience, it all fits together though.


Good Luck!
Mike.

Freeola is a UK internet service provider offering the best value and extensive free services. Please compare our domain name registration prices or check out our UK high speed internet access. If you are in business please see examples of our free hosting at Freeola.com/customer-sites.

Safe and Secure Payment