Retro Game Walkthroughs For
"World Championship Snooker 2004"
(PC Games)

Retro Game Walkthroughs for World Championship Snooker 2004 (PC Games)
Submitted By: Forest Fan
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|World Championship Snooker 2004 Walkthrough by FOREST FAN|
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Part One – Information and Features
Part Two – The Shots
Part Three – Unlockables
Part Four – A Note From Me

*****PART ONE*****
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|Information and Features|
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World Championship Snooker 2004 features:

- Play snooker or pool
- Take up the challenge with John Virgo’s trickshot
- Battle through eight classic match challenges
- Take on your friends with extra bonus games
- Play head to head online
- Dozens of unlockables, including photos and videos
- Play through all the official tournaments in the LG Tour
- 30 top professional players to choose from
- Authentic cue control

To access information concerning World Championship Snooker 2004 in any of the areas in this guide hit CTRL+F to search through this walkthrough.

*****PART TWO*****
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|The Shots|
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Welcome – so you might now how to hit a shot fairly well in WCS, but how good is your arsenal of shot taking abilities? You probably have worked out how all the modes in the game work, but if you could do with some help, then below are listed quite a few different types of shots without any confusing snooker jargon:

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BREAK OFF SHOT

It is so important that you get off to a good start in any snooker match, especially if you are playing a professional player so time your break off shot just right. You should be aiming to hit one of the lower reds on the left hand side of the pack. There a couple of different options for you to try and achieve this; you could play safe and roll up to the reds with low power hence finishing on them and not giving anything away or you could play a medium powered shot back up to the bulk are (top cushion) and attempt to snooker your opponent. However you hit the shot, the crucial situation to avoid is leaving a free red on. This could happen in either of the two ways listed, but is more likely in the latter way, which is why if you go for the regular shot of trying to finish in bulk – be sure to finish either on the cushion or tucked in behind a colour so you’re safe if you leave a red on.

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CLOSE SHOT

One of the most common shots and yet easiest to fail on is the ‘close’ shot. When you’re close to the object ball, the trick is not to hit the ball too hard. If you do this, the object ball is liable to rattle around in the jaws of the pocket and thus meaning you miss the shot. Be especially careful when playing this shot at either of the middle pockets, as their jaws (sides) are completely able for you to hit unlike those of the corner pockets. Still – most shots from nearby should be relatively easy, so do concentrate on the positioning of the white ball. This means adjusting the position of the contact of the cue ball to object ball, hence you may not want to hit the ball in the middle of the pocket but rather slightly to one side to favour the cue ball’s finishing position. The worst thing you can do though is to be tempted to over-focus on the cue ball’s position and then miss the shot altogether, be sure to avoid this scenario.

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CUSHION SHOT

Should the ball you want to reach not be visible, then you’ll need to play off the cushion. Usually you’ll only need to play off the one cushion, but at times you may need to play off two or three depending upon the position of the object ball. As long as you have the aim set on the ball there’s not a lot you can do with the cue ball. Sometimes though even if you are snookered it may be possible to play off a cushion and when hit at the correct angle – pot the ball. Do not risk missing the ball altogether for this manoeuvre, but if you pull it off it can pay dividends when it kills two birds in one stone and relieves you of your snooker and bags you some points. Remember that if you choose to rebound the cue ball off two cushions extra power is required and even if you play off just the one high power is often advised to make the white safe.

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LONG SHOT
I’ll set the scene for you. The object ball (the one you want to hit) is the other side of the table and the cue ball is stuck at the other end. Finding the correct target from this sort of distance is clearly going to prove difficult, but by pressing TRIANGLE you should be able to assess the situation better. Basically by holding this button you should be able to re-align the shot into the heart of the pocket, where you should always aim from this position. Do this because from this distance you are obviously going to need to leave yourself a considerably larger amount of room for error. At the same time it is important you take note of the cue ball (white ball) position when the shot is played. This is demonstrated by the white dotted line appearing away from the object ball, though may appear red if played with side. In short – make sure if you take on a risky long pot and it fails, you’re opponent won’t have an easy short shot.

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HAMPERED SHOT

If you are up against the cushion, it can be really hard to get a good shot away as the cue is angled so awkwardly. The ball’s flight might change because of the cue ball’s position, so you need to make sure you have perfected the angle just right and not hit the shot with too much power. Stave off any ambitious hopes of fluking in from the other end of the table, as this is neither the time nor the place to be trying anything too over the top. A good bet is to try and play safe when you usually hit this shot, perhaps trying to land back at the cushion the cue ball currently occupies. This would require you to shave the designated colour by barely hitting it with medium power so that the white rests up against the cushion. Having said this, there will be occasions when there is a straightforward shot-to-nothing on and obviously the best advice would be to go for the pot, though it remains rare that you could be certain of success.

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HIT AND HOPE SHOT

I’ve aptly named this type of shot; ‘Hit and Hope’. This is for those occasions when you really cannot be bothered to weigh up your shot and leave yourself an easy follow-on and are just going to try and pot the ball, nothing else. For a start make sure the position of the shot is a suitable, e.g. don’t go trying to pot something with mathematically doesn’t make sense, but if you want to take a risk make sure it has at the least a 50/50 chance of success, with every effort made to ensure those odds are severely higher and stacked up in your favour. This will mainly be used when the object ball is a long way from the cue ball, so hit this with near full power so that at least the shot looks good when it goes in, or even if it fails a dazzling disappointment! Personally I’d be reserved about just slogging the ball when you could do a whole lot better, barring of course it’s not an exhibition match or you’re trying to show off.

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PLANT SHOT
This is a great shot to pull off and one that isn’t actually too hard to implement. You don’t even need the object balls to be directly in line to pot a ball, but rather able to hit each other. You can in fact hit a ball (i.e. a red one) at an angle and into the path of another red ball, directing it into the pocket. The plant requires a certain degree of high power to force smooth movement between the balls and good placement into the pocket. Don’t attempt this shot though if the two balls you want to plant are any more than a few centimetres away on the table as that would be too risky. It is even possible to play the plant with more than two balls – there or four for example, but this is incredibly dangerous and should only be used if you already have the frame in the bag and want to show off to your friends. If you want flashy plant shots; stick to John Virgo’s trickshots.

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SAFETY SHOT

Like it or not, the ‘safety’ shot remains crucial to your game when you mix it with the top players. It will always come in handy at the beginning of frames; just after break off as there will almost always be a few nervous shots as the game gets going. In an instance like this, just softly play the ball (low to medium strength) down the object ball so that it rests up against the cushion, or failing that is hidden by a colour. Safety shots aren’t all about snookers though, because the primary objective of a safety is to simply get the cue ball safe from any potable positions. This means making sure any loose balls that could be potted have been either covered or the cueing is made so awkward, the shot isn’t worth taking on. This isn’t the only way to play safe though, as you could make sure that all available pockets for the object ball itself to be potted in are covered, or you could alternatively pot a ball, just to play safe the next time and try for a snooker.

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SCREW SHOT

The screw shot is a hugely useful shot and one that you’ll surely want to use a lot as its advantages are limitless. Especially useful when trying to get position low as you don’t want to roll the cue ball back, the screw shot can also help you avoid cannoning into any other foreign balls. As well as that, the screw shot can enable the cue ball to rest at the point where the object ball was struck or even where the white began its journey – thus making planning for the next shot a whole lot easier and the break as a whole a lot smoother. Using the right amount of screw will save worry that the cue ball itself will be potted, which at certain angles can happen all too often for some people’s liking – especially when it gives away the frame. Despite this, you still have to watch where the cue ball might end up; if you’re not careful it could end up in a different pocket.

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SIDE SHOT

When you want to position the cue ball to one side, but haven’t got the right angle to reach the location directly off the object ball, you can add screw to any shot and finish left or right of the cue ball’s ordinary path. The shot should get away quite cleanly and again should be quite easy to plan for, and plan the next shot from. If the ‘side shot’ is hit well enough the cue ball will not necessarily roll back like with the screw shot, of though you can of course combine the ‘side shot’ with any other manoeuvres for extra effect. For a decent impact, it’s a fairly easy and risk free shot to play and should have many advantages, none less than help with positioning the cue ball in relation to the break, though the side shot – like any other can be useful when trying to play a safety shot or more defensive still: a snooker. Not much should go wrong with this shot, as long as you take extra note of the cue ball’s path and the position of the pockets.

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STUN SHOT

Stunning the ball is an effective way of stopping the cue ball dead. Not only does it definitely mean that the white will not be potted as well, but can make planning for your next shot easier as you locate the exact point of the cue ball’s finish. The way the screw works is that it transfers the energy for the white ball which would usually require it to roll forward some and passes that extra energy on to the object ball, thus meaning the shot is also more powerful. The catch that comes with the ‘stun shot’ is that to play the shot, you have to hit the ball with high power and below centre, so unless you’re taking on a lengthy pot, there are risks involved that you could over-hit the shot. The ‘stun’ looks good too and isn’t too difficult to pull off neither, but in truth you probably won’t need as much as some of the other shots. Only really needed when the balls are compact together and you have a small gap to aim for.

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SWERVE SHOT

The ‘swerve shot’ isn’t for everyone, especially not for beginners of WCS 2004 – as it requires quite a lot of careful planning for. If you like the sound of this shot, first have a little practice at it on the free table before adding this to your game. To perform you simply elevate the cue’s position on the white ball, but this results in a different path the white will take after completing the shot. Unlike a normal shot where the white will roll and stay put and travel in a straight line, in a swerved shot the white ball will travel around in an arc – as the ball is spun around. Advantages of swerve include you can direct the cue ball into a specific area, as you can set the swerve to either side of the normal travel of the ball. However it is a dangerous manoeuvre, as the ball can be unpredictable and is liable to end up in pockets or completely out of chosen position, so use this shot sparingly.

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TOPSPIN SHOT

The topspin shot is a classy manoeuvre with the intent of rolling the cue ball on further than it normally would. Use it when you want the white to move forward so that it is in a good position for the next shot. There’s no point overusing the shot as you won’t need it that much, just when you quite simply want to set up an easy next shot. To perform just hit the top part of the ball, but be careful not to hit the shot with too much power. If you do this, you run the risk of forcing the white ball just into the pocket as the cue ball rolls some. The topspin shot is especially useful in the shot making department, for instance when you try and get position so you can stay on the black ball. Wrong use of the topspin shot could hinder your break though, as you could lose position on the ball you wish to pot. You can of course mix the topspin shot to either side to really develop the shot individually.

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VITAL SHOT
So it may not be an actual specific type of shot, but the psychological differences behind a vital shot which could say for instance, win you the frame, match, championship or pride really mean the shot in itself regardless of position come into its own. First thing to do when about to apply the shot is relax and steady your hands together. Then it’s simply a case of directing the ball into the middle of the pocket, noting everything that could go wrong. Check for the accuracy of the shot; is it about to fly out the jaws of the pocket? Make sure that the cue ball isn’t about to roll into the pocket too and be sure that if you miss the shot you don’t leave anything easy for your opponent to capitalize on and take the frame. Perhaps most reassuringly remember it’s just a game and so don’t take it too seriously, but if you do be sure to have every part of the shot checked and double checked.

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*****PART THREE*****
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|Unlockables|
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There’s a lot to do in World Championship Snooker 2004, but there’ also lots to unlock, so below is a full checklist of what to unlock and how to do it:

-Unlock Joe Davis-
Finish an LG Tour season ranked as number one.

-Unlock John Virgo-
Complete the Snooker Trickshot Challenge

-Unlock videos-
Complete classic matches

-Unlock photos of past champions-
Win the tournament in the LG Tour

-Unlock photo memorabilia-
1. Break Over 30
2. Break Over 50
3. Clear the colours
4. Win a frame by over 50 points
5. Play in the Crucible
6. Pot with a plant shot
7. Pot a ball straight off a break (snooker only)
8. Pot two or more reds in a single shot (snooker only)
9. Break over 100
10. Totally clear the table
11. Make a 147 maximum break

*****PART FOUR*****
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| A Note From Me |
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Good game is this one; World Championship Snooker 2004. Hope you discover all the various little traits this game has going for it and have as much fun in playing on it, as I have had in writing my own guide to how to play shots in WCS 2004.

My new e-mail address is [email protected], so don’t hesitate to e-mail me if you would like to copy this walkthrough (so long as you credit me) in either part of fully. Please credit my name and e-mail address in doing so and please mail me to tell me if you see someone not crediting me. If you have any problems or questions regarding the game; I would love to hear from you.

Thank you for reading this guide and good luck!

Forest Fan

Copywright Jonathan Weissman (For Special Reserve only)

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